BMW R65 Restoration - Part 8 - The End & Cutting Losses

 Greetings friends,

This is the conclusion of my series of posts documenting the restoration of my BMW R65. For the previous post in this series, click here.

This post is a conclusion for this project and a discussion of why I've decided to end this project now rather than to sink more time and money into it. This project has been a lot of fun and a huge learning experience but the knowledge I've gained has made me realize I went about some things in ways that weren't proper for the project in general. I'll discuss that here a little bit.

For starters, I have decided to keep the engine that I bought for the bike. It's a 1978 R100RS engine, and I see some potential to use it for another project later on or to fully rebuild as a functional display piece. I did some work on it during this project, including replacing the starter motor, voltage reducer, and updating the air intake. Some of the older electronics like the diodes will ne replacing, but modern reproductions are readily available and I will update that once I have a chance to rebuild the engine in the future.

One of the major factors in deciding to stop this project is damage to the frame that was sustained before I purchased it. I was initially under the impression that only the forks had been damaged when purchasing the frame, but it turns the steering column was also damaged and misaligned, which after having experience riding other motorcycles made me realize that it wouldn't be very safe to ride if I followed through with the full restoration.

Finally, there were just a number of other shortcuts I took that in hindsight were shortsighted. I cheaped out on the throttle body, handlebars, some components of the ignition system, and in the end didn't want to spend more money to correct those mistakes.

I've since sold nearly all the parts for the bike and luckily recouped the majority of my expenses. That's the great thing about vintage vehicles, people are always looking for parts!

I hope to have a similar project in the future with a more complete vintage BMW Boxer, and to rebuild the engine I have when time and funds allow. Thanks to everyone who followed along with these posts, and look out for the other stuff I'm working on!

Thanks for reading,

Juju

BMW R65/R100 Restoration - Part 7 - Brake Caliper Rebuild

Greetings friends,

This is a continuation of my series of posts documenting the restoration of my BMW R65. For the previous post in this series, click here.

I bought a Brembo brake caliper (sort of) sight unseen on Ebay. The "unseen" portion of this purchase was the condition of the inside of the caliper, as well as no part numbers being provided, only that this caliper was the correct vintage for BMW airheads. For $40, I really couldn't pass on the price and took a chance on it...

When it arrived, I was amazed at how nice the caliper was, and after opening it up I found almost no corrosion or other significant signs of wear! I hit the jackpot but decided the rebuild the caliper anyway, primarily due to the fact that I can only assumer all the seals and gaskets are 40+ years old and need replacement anyway.

Brembo provides a huge selection of repair and rebuild kits for their brakes, and I was pleased to find the exact kits I needed for this specific caliper. The caliper didn't come with the retaining pins and spring for the pads, so I had to buy those separately. The seal kit came with piston gaskets and dust covers as well as replacement bolts for holding the halves of the caliper together. I'll go into more detail below.

Cleaning the interior of the caliper was an easy process, like I said there wasn't much corrosion at all, and the surfaces just had old brake fluid on them. A thorough wiping with acetone and paper towels cleaned them right up. Some acetone-soaked Q-tips were able to reach into the small holes and remove any build-up.

The Brembo kits included some assembly lubricant which was much more viscous than brake fluid but it made the re-assembly a breeze. In a matter of about 15 minutes I installed the piston seals, dust covers, and bolted the two halves of the caliper back together. A small O-ring is sandwiched between the halves of the caliper to connect the brake fluid galleys, so both halves of the caliper receive fluid. When torqueing the big bolts holding the caliper together, I mounted the caliper back onto the forks which gave me the leverage I needed, as the torque spec for these bolts is 50 ft-lb. 

The brake pads have alignment pins as well as a retaining spring, which may look a bit clumsy in the photo below, but once around the brake rotor will be aligned well. At this point the reassembly is complete, I just need to reinstall the caliper onto the forks and bleed it with new fluid!

I hope to be able to make more posts soon for this project. Life has been busy and this project has been on the backburner, but I pretty much have most parts in place to at least have the bike moving... just gotta type out a lot more of these updates. Keep an eye out for more posts!

Thanks for reading,

Juju

Moto Guzzi Breva 750 - Head Guards

 Greetings friends,

I have a few upgrades I plan to make for my Breva 750 and in this post I'm sharing one of them: head guards! I purchased these on Ebay from a seller from the UK, the link to his Ebay page can be found here. The head guards are very well made and I find the engraved MG eagles quite snazzy looking! Their function is to protect the spark plugs from breaking in the event of dropping the bike since the spark plug is the first part of the bike that would contact the ground in that scenario. This is unfortunately the nature of Moto Guzzis due to the design and position of the engine & cylinders,  and with a broken plug, you're stuck... The guards are designed such that the spark plugs can still be removed and replaced as needed.

I filmed a short video of me installing the guards, which I've uploaded to Youtube and can be viewed below.

I also took some 'glamour' shots of the head guards using a nicer camera, the best of which you can see below. I'm really pleased that the guards are not only functional but very good-looking as well!

Thanks for reading,

Juju

Moto Guzzi Breva 750 - Oil Change Torques

 Greetings friends,

After my first year as a motorcyclist, I decided it was time to upgrade to a larger and more comfortable bike. I recently sold my 2002 Yamaha Virago 250 and bought a far more appropriately-sized 2004 Moto Guzzi Breva V750ie.

Being a newcomer to the Moto Guzzi community, I've quickly realized that resources (for parts as well as information) for these motorcycles are very limited in the USA. There are several MG-dedicated forums, but often if I'm searching for information on Google, the forum results are hard to navigate. In an effort to add to the limited library of english-language resources for Moto Guzzis, I will be documenting what I learn as I perform routine maintenance or repairs on this bike during my ownership.

Although oil changes are simple matters, a few bits of info I was never able to get a clear answer for were the torque specifications for the two oil drain bolts as well as for the oil filter bolt. Additionally, the gearbox and bevel drive require annual (or 5000mi) oil changes, and the torque values for these bolts are equally unclear. I will share here the torque values I've found to work for all these drain bolts as well as any peculiarities I observe in the oil change procedure.

A Guzzi enthusiast located in Australia, Mike, has many useful videos carrying out maintenance on the Breva 750, so I won't go into any detail about how to perform these oil changes. If you wish to view the relevant videos, they can be found here for the engine oil, and here for the bevel drive and gearbox. Mike's instructions are very thorough, but he unfortunately mentions nothing about torque for any of the fasteners he removes/reinstalls. Here are the torque values I use:

Torque Specifications:

Engine:

    Oil Pan Front Drain Bolt: 20 ft-lb (~27 N-m)

    Oil Pan Rear Drain Bolt: 15 ft-lb (~20 N-m)

    Oil Filter Bolt: 10 ft-lb (~13 N-m)

Gearbox:

    Drain Bolt: 15 ft-lb (~20 N-m)

    Fill/Level Bolt: 20 ft-lb (~27 N-m)

Bevel Drive:

    Drain Bolt: 15 ft-lb (~20 N-m)

    Fill/Level Bolt: 10 ft-lb (~13 N-m)

I figured out another trick after having some trouble with the crush washer for the engine oil drain bolt. The washer supplied with my new filter kit was made of aluminum, and too large for the M10 drain bolt, so it sealed poorly and resulted in a minor oil leak. I'm including pictures of it below, to show how it not only poorly seated, but that also the head of the bolt began digging into the non-sealing side of the washer as well. I had a similar sealing issue with a copper crush washer, so I decided to buy some Dowty-type sealing washers, which have bonded rubber on the inside, which provide an excellent seal that doesn't leak oil at all!

It's pretty obvious in these photos how a small section near the bottom of the washer wasn't sealing, and how the bolt head was digging into the washer, likely not helping the sealing issue. The Dowty washer solves this problem providing a perfect seal.

Thanks for reading,

Juju

BMW R65 Restoration - Part 6 - Handle Bars, Carburetors, Chokes, and Throttle

Greetings friends,

This is a continuation of my series of posts documenting the restoration of my BMW R65. For the previous post in this series, click here.

Today we're going to jam a lot of small steps into a single blog post. In the last post I mounted the engine and transmission into the frame of the bike, and today we're attaching most of the peripheral equipment that the engine needs to run.

Let's start with the carburetors. These guys were in pretty good shape, and as far as attaching them to the engine, they were surprisingly easy, as there's a rubber sleeve that clamps onto the carb, connecting it into the intake of the corresponding cylinder. The backside of the carbs have fittings to allow the throttle cables and choke cables to be attached, and a small hose barb for the fuel line. We'll touch on each of these as each is installed. As part of the restoration/modification of this bike, I'm going for somewhat of a "Cafe Racer" style, which commonly uses pod-type filters on the carburetor inlets, which can be seen below. The filters mounted with a rubber sleeve exactly how the carbs mount to the cylinder.

The airbox that came with these bikes was pretty ugly in my opinion, so at least for now I'm forgoing trying to find a used airbox and simply eliminating it for the individual filters, and covering the top of the engine/starter motor with a nice cover. There is much debate in the community surrounding the impact on the engine of pod-filters vs airboxes, but for the sake of simplicity this is what I'm doing for now.

Pod filters fit right onto the carbs!

This motorcycle was originally equipped with choke cables that were manipulated with a knob mounted on the handlebars, but for an overall cleaner as less-cluttered look, I decided to forgo the cables and use "Choke Pull Tabs" instead. These tabs are thin wires connected to aluminum knobs that attach directly to the carburetor and allow fast choke (dis)engagement. The only disadvantage to the tabs is that each one needs to be pulled by itself, whereas the original choke cables would have pulled both chokes simultaneously. This isn't an issue since it's quite easy to stop for a sec and pull them to disable the choke.

It's obvious where to pull, right?

The handlebars I'm installing are unpainted stainless steel, as close in dimensions as I could get to the originals (22 mm dia.). They bolted on very easily, so there's not too much to discuss surrounding their installation.

The throttle body was a relatively cheap amazon purchase, and was a very simple fit over the end of the handlebar. The rounded end caps of the handlebar are tack-welded on, so I had to grind that back a bit to accommodate the throttle body. I lubricated the throttle body with the green grease I used for the steering bearing in a previous post. 

I purchased a throttle cable kit, which included all the necessary fittings to cut to length and assemble my own throttle cables. Using the old throttle cables as a reference, I cut the wires to length and assembled them in the same manner as the old ones. The old cables use a splitting assembly to allow one cable from the throttle body to control both butterfly valves at once. The kit I bought included this splitter, so I was able to recreate the original cables almost exactly.

   

Completed throttle cables. I forgot to take a pic of the
originals before I disassembled them...

Once the cables were fully assembled, routing them from the throttle body through the frame was simple, and the cable ends slipped nicely into the provided throttle levers on the carburetors. The levers are tucked away behind the carbs, but I'll include a picture in a different post to show them.

A little too zoomed-out, but here you can see the starter cover/airbox eliminator.

The handlebar grips were very easy to install thanks to a pro-tip from a friend of mine. Wetting the inside of the grip and the handlebar with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) allowed the grips to slide on very easily, and after the IPA evaporated overnight, the grips were super solidly in place. I did the same thing for the footrests!

There are a number of other accessories that will ultimately bolt onto the handle bars, but I think those will best be covered in a separate post. The engine electrics will also be covered separately, so for now, that's all!

Thanks for reading,

Juju

P.S. For the attentive readers in my audience, yes there are components installed on the bike that haven't been covered by this series of posts. I work on the bike as I go, and select parts to write about, but those don't always match chronologically...

BMW R65 Restoration - Part 5 - Engine & Transmission

Greetings friends,

This is a continuation of my series of posts documenting the restoration of my BMW R65. For the previous post in this series, click here.

When we last left off, I had documented the process of constructing the seat for my bike, and although that step chronologically occurred after the stuff I'll be describing in this post, this blog entry comes after. This post is pretty short, and just covers the broad strokes of installing the engine and transmission.

A crucial step before installing anything heavy into the bike is installing the kickstand. The bike must be able to stand on its own for everything else to go in, so I stripped down and painted the kickstand in the same manner as the frame and subframe. Installation was simple, just screwing it into place and installing the spring that holds it up or down.

The progress up until this point! Really starting to come together 

and look good, especially with the tank in place.

The engine is a heavy bastard, but is relatively easy to install. Two long threaded rods go through the frame and engine body to hold it in place, so it was just a matter of lifting (with help) and pushing the rods through the holes. Nuts and washers hold the rod in place, and with that the engine is in! That's the end of the simple stuff, as the transmission wound up being a bit more tricky.

The transmission was odd to get into place, likely because I'm technically fitting an engine and transmission from an R100RS (980cc) into the frame of an R65LS (650cc). I don't have a lot of wiggle room behind the engine at this point. I had to unbolt the swingarm and swing the rear wheel back to ultimately attach the transmission. Luckily the transmission hooks directly to the rear end of the clutch shaft and bolts on with 4 easy bolts, so once it was in place, there were no more issues.

I bolted the swingarm back in place and admired my work! With the engine/transmission in place I can start attaching more small components, including the carburettors, the throttle, and the air intake filters. Look out for all that in the next post!

Thanks for reading,

Juju

BMW R65 Restoration - Part 4 - Building the Seat

Greetings friends,

This is a continuation of my series of posts documenting the restoration of my BMW R65. For the previous post, click here.

When we last left off, I had attached the forks and swingarm onto the frame and gotten both wheels back onto the bike. Everything is really coming together and it's starting to look the way it's supposed to! 😁

In this post I'm going to detail the process of constructing the seat, including the upholstery. I'm very inexperienced as far as sewing goes, and have never tried sewing upholstery so please forgive my beginner mistakes. As with almost everything else about this restoration, it's a learning experience.

Construction of the seat began with cutting out the base to which the foam and cover would attach. I drilled holes into a 3/4" piece of birch plywood and attached it to the subframe to trace out the silhouette of the seat. Some quick cutting with the bandsaw and sanding the rough edges gave me a finished seat base. I painted the base with black Rustoleum paint.

For the main padding layer of the seat, I used some leftover 2" Kaizen foam I had left over from another project. Kaizen is closed-cell polyethylene foam which is very firm, generally used for multi purpose storage. Using 3M adhesive spray, I attached the foam to the wooden base and cut it to shape.

To cut the contour of the foam, I opted to bolt the seat to the bike and shave foam off until I reached a comfortable shape. I didn't do anything complex, mostly just rounding off and tapering the corners so everything looked good.

The last layer of foam I added before the cover went on is a 0.5" polyurethane foam. This foam is very soft and squishy and provides a thin compressible layer for added comfort. I traced the seat onto the foam, cut it out, and stuck it to the Kaizen foam with spray adhesive (no picture, but you'll see it later).

The cover was made out of black vinyl fabric. I selected the "arctic vinyl" option since it supposedly is more resilient to colder temperatures and will resist cracking. My original plan was to sew a layer of 0.5" polyurethane foam in between two layers of vinyl to create the cushioned diamond pattern for the cover but our sewing machine isn't robust enough to go through such thick material, so I settled for a layer of quilting batting between the layers, and it gave the same kind of effect. Not as much texture as I would've liked but the effect is still nice.

I again traced the seat onto this diamond-patterned piece and sewed along the line, cutting it out to shape. I then took a "negatively-shaped" piece of vinyl and sewed it to the main piece backwards, such that when pulled out it would fold around the sides of the seat and could be stapled into place. The sewing machine skipped a lot of stitches in this step, since I was working with a lot of thick layers. Because of this, I had to go over the line a few times in places to make sure it was all secure. The end that meets the gas tank needed a connecting piece to form the corners, which was simply sewed into place.

Once the entire cover was sewed together, I sprayed the middle part with spray adhesive and stuck it to the urethane foam, if for nothing else than to keep it centered and in place for when the rest of the cover got pulled and stapled into place. That said, I unfortunately got so caught up in the act of stapling the cover on that I hardly took any pictures of the process. But as you can imagine, it involved starting with stapling the front of the cover down (pictured below) and working down the sides to the back, pulling everything even and making it nice and tight.

First you start with a few staples.... and blammo you're done!

And with that, it's done! I've gone out of order with these posts compared to the actual progress I've made on the bike, so for now I'm not going to show off the rest of the bike until a later post. When that time comes, I'll show some other angles of the seat. Overall, I'm incredibly pleased with how it looks, and I learned a lot along the way. I may redo the cover later on just to give it a nicer cleaner shot but for now I'll move on to more important parts of the restoration.

Thanks for reading,

Juju

BMW R65 Restoration - Part 3 - Forks & Swingarm

Greetings friends,

This is a continuation of my series of posts documenting the restoration of my BMW R65. For the previous post, click here.

When we last left off, I had removed the front wheel and was finding a solution for the damaged forks. I took the wheel to The Wheel Master, having heard that if there was anyone who could fix it, it'd be him. To make a long story short, the dent in the rim was too great, resulting in severe cracking when he tried to bang it out..... so that meant I had to hit eBay for a replacement. I looked for an exact copy, since the distinctive "snowflake" pattern of these wheels is quite unique and I wanted to keep them matching. For the forks, I just bought a reasonably priced replacement which simply bolted right on. Not much choice here, since the existing forks were just too bent up to be useful. However, removing the old forks turned out to be a bit of a chore! Here's what went down..

Handlebars off, top yoke ready to remove.

I first tried loosening the yoke clamps to pull out the fork tubes, but they must have been jammed in place because they simply wouldn't budge. I decided I had to remove the bottom yoke and forks in one piece. First off, the handlebars had to come off, followed by the top yoke. Once the yoke was removed, I could pull out the bearings and remove the entire lower fork assembly. Let's have a look at them:

Now that's a lot of damage!*

With the forks off, I removed the bearings and thoroughly cleaned them with engine de-greaser. The old grease was profoundly oxidized and no longer provided any lubricating properties, so naturally it had to go. The old forks were pretty useless at this point and since they were stuck in the lower yoke, I just cut the yoke off and saved the forks in case I needed any spare parts down the road.

Beautifully clean bearing!

Since a lot of effort was saved by buying new forks, I was able to move directly ahead to installing them after I painted the frame. I used Green Grease at the recommendation of my mechanic; the water resistance that it provides is ideal in this application. Though I don't plan to take the bike out in the rain, I still want to make sure that all bearings are waterproof.

Greased up, the bearings went into the steering column followed by the forks. Surprisingly, it was all very easy to install and works like a charm! The forks themselves have some gunk on them and will need to be cleaned more later on, but for now they're totally functional.

Moving on to the swingarm, there's actually not a whole lot I had to do. I removed the wheel (since it needed a new tire) and removed it from the final drive assembly simply to replace the gasket connecting the two. The swingarm attaches to the frame using two pivot bolts, and these are held in place with large nuts. The shock absorbers then attach the swingarm to the subframe, comprising the rear suspension. 

The whole rear suspension/swingarm disassembly process.

Sort of a poor picture, but this somewhat illustrates 

how the swingarm attaches to the main frame.

This all came together pretty effortlessly, so aside from both wheels still needing new tires, the front and rear suspension are both complete!

Thanks for reading,

Juju