Pipe Restoration - Cavalier Pipe

 Greetings friends,

I really enjoyed the last pipe I restored, so I once again searched Ebay for pipes that were worse for the wear, and stumbled on another of my favorite styles, the Cavalier! The pipe I bought was missing the bottom cap, but at least still had the threads for it. The stem was oxidized and the bowl had very heavy cake inside. Luckily, the briar was in great shape and the grain on it at least at first glance was very pretty!

 

I started off my reaming the inside of the bowl to get rid of the ridiculously thick cake, which was surprisingly easy and revealed that the pipe was in really good shape!

 

Inspecting the briar more closely, I found no holes or voids that were filled at any point. It really seems that this pipe was well made and properly used, but I imagine the loss of the foot cap (either it broke or was lost) spelled the end of it's useful life for the previous owner. The process for re-finishing the briar was very straightforward, I used some 300 grit sandpaper to remove any grime and old finish, and then sanded to 600 grit for a really smooth surface. I applied a couple thin coats of amber shellac to the briar, which really highlighted the beautiful grain of this piece of wood. I decided not to dye it at all, as the natural briar color with shellac was plenty good-looking. In fact the grain on this particular piece of briar was stunning!

To make the foot cap, I used the remaining piece of horn I had from the last pipe I restored, and fashioned it into a simple cylinder. I drilled the hole and tapped it, which allowed it to very easily screw onto the existing threads coming out of the shank.

I polished the stem with progressively finer sandpaper, followed by a quick rub-down with Yorkshire Grit, and it came out looking fantastic! I wasn't able to use my lathe to create the bottom cap and so had to use my drill press. In the future I may redo the cap but for now the pipe looks great and is usable.

Thanks for reading,

Juju

BMW R65 Restoration - Part 8 - The End & Cutting Losses

 Greetings friends,

This is the conclusion of my series of posts documenting the restoration of my BMW R65. For the previous post in this series, click here.

This post is a conclusion for this project and a discussion of why I've decided to end this project now rather than to sink more time and money into it. This project has been a lot of fun and a huge learning experience but the knowledge I've gained has made me realize I went about some things in ways that weren't proper for the project in general. I'll discuss that here a little bit.

For starters, I have decided to keep the engine that I bought for the bike. It's a 1978 R100RS engine, and I see some potential to use it for another project later on or to fully rebuild as a functional display piece. I did some work on it during this project, including replacing the starter motor, voltage reducer, and updating the air intake. Some of the older electronics like the diodes will ne replacing, but modern reproductions are readily available and I will update that once I have a chance to rebuild the engine in the future.

One of the major factors in deciding to stop this project is damage to the frame that was sustained before I purchased it. I was initially under the impression that only the forks had been damaged when purchasing the frame, but it turns the steering column was also damaged and misaligned, which after having experience riding other motorcycles made me realize that it wouldn't be very safe to ride if I followed through with the full restoration.

Finally, there were just a number of other shortcuts I took that in hindsight were shortsighted. I cheaped out on the throttle body, handlebars, some components of the ignition system, and in the end didn't want to spend more money to correct those mistakes.

I've since sold nearly all the parts for the bike and luckily recouped the majority of my expenses. That's the great thing about vintage vehicles, people are always looking for parts!

I hope to have a similar project in the future with a more complete vintage BMW Boxer, and to rebuild the engine I have when time and funds allow. Thanks to everyone who followed along with these posts, and look out for the other stuff I'm working on!

Thanks for reading,

Juju

BMW R65/R100 Restoration - Part 7 - Brake Caliper Rebuild

Greetings friends,

This is a continuation of my series of posts documenting the restoration of my BMW R65. For the previous post in this series, click here.

I bought a Brembo brake caliper (sort of) sight unseen on Ebay. The "unseen" portion of this purchase was the condition of the inside of the caliper, as well as no part numbers being provided, only that this caliper was the correct vintage for BMW airheads. For $40, I really couldn't pass on the price and took a chance on it...

When it arrived, I was amazed at how nice the caliper was, and after opening it up I found almost no corrosion or other significant signs of wear! I hit the jackpot but decided the rebuild the caliper anyway, primarily due to the fact that I can only assumer all the seals and gaskets are 40+ years old and need replacement anyway.

Brembo provides a huge selection of repair and rebuild kits for their brakes, and I was pleased to find the exact kits I needed for this specific caliper. The caliper didn't come with the retaining pins and spring for the pads, so I had to buy those separately. The seal kit came with piston gaskets and dust covers as well as replacement bolts for holding the halves of the caliper together. I'll go into more detail below.

Cleaning the interior of the caliper was an easy process, like I said there wasn't much corrosion at all, and the surfaces just had old brake fluid on them. A thorough wiping with acetone and paper towels cleaned them right up. Some acetone-soaked Q-tips were able to reach into the small holes and remove any build-up.

The Brembo kits included some assembly lubricant which was much more viscous than brake fluid but it made the re-assembly a breeze. In a matter of about 15 minutes I installed the piston seals, dust covers, and bolted the two halves of the caliper back together. A small O-ring is sandwiched between the halves of the caliper to connect the brake fluid galleys, so both halves of the caliper receive fluid. When torqueing the big bolts holding the caliper together, I mounted the caliper back onto the forks which gave me the leverage I needed, as the torque spec for these bolts is 50 ft-lb. 

The brake pads have alignment pins as well as a retaining spring, which may look a bit clumsy in the photo below, but once around the brake rotor will be aligned well. At this point the reassembly is complete, I just need to reinstall the caliper onto the forks and bleed it with new fluid!

I hope to be able to make more posts soon for this project. Life has been busy and this project has been on the backburner, but I pretty much have most parts in place to at least have the bike moving... just gotta type out a lot more of these updates. Keep an eye out for more posts!

Thanks for reading,

Juju

1930s Electronic Metronome Restoration

Greetings friends,

Recently, I lucked out and received a very cool vintage metronome from someone in my local "Buy-Nothing" group. As some of you know, music is a big part of my life and I was very excited about this find and at the prospect of restoring it to fully-functioning condition.

Let's start with a little bit of history on this device, since it has some cool design features and is one of the first electronic metronomes to hit the market. The Franz electromechanic metronome was invented in 1938, and saw production through 1994. The mechanism by which the metronome operates is very interesting in that it uses a synchronous motor to spin a wheel which drives a shaft containing a ledged cam lobe (not sure what else to call it?), which on each rotation strikes a spring-loaded hammer onto the interior wall of the metronome box. Changing the angle of the wheel with respect to the motor spindle by way of the external dial ("selecting the tempo") changes the frequency of the hammer strikes.

The metronome I received was in fairly good condition, but with a fair amount of dirt on the exterior. The mechanism worked well at higher tempi (80+ bpm) but was very irregular at slower tempi. The bottom plate, seen above, is in good enough condition that I won't be altering anything about it during this restoration. I'm happy that the label is legible, so I won't try risking any damage to it by trying to clean it. I'll just have to live with the small amount of rust.

To start the restoration, I disassembled the entire mechanism and right away cut the old power cord which was very brittle and starting to crack in some places. I bought a cheap 8-foot extension cord to re-purpose as the power cord for the metronome. The socket is interestingly designed, and it's plenty obvious how the cord connects. The other end gets soldered to the switch and motor, which we'll see later. 

To clean the exterior, I started off with simple dishsoap and warm water, and used an old toothbrush to get into the dirty crevices. Since the white lettering was oxidized and already chipping out a bit, I decided to just scrub until all the letters were cleaned out. With all the dirt removed the appearance of the case was already hugely improved, but I decided to polish a little bit using rubbing compound just to give it a little bit of shine.

The mechanism itself was quite clean and didn't require a whole lot of manipulation, though I did need to make some adjustments to make the slow tempi more consistent. I noticed that at the lower settings the wheel that operates the hammer was not making full contact with the motor spindle. To fix this I simply cut some pieces of thin leather to act as shims, which lowered the height of the motor and allowed the hammer wheel to make full contact across the full tempo range.

I used a lacquer-stik to fill in the numbers on the face on the metronome as well as the "ELECTRONOME" lettering underneath the dial (although these didn't seem to be filled when I received it). The metal indicator on the dial was polished using Brasso, and the reassembly went without a hitch.

Fully functional again, the metronome has a permanent place on my piano. I use it occasionally, especially when showing off to guests. After 80 years of use, it's great to see some new life in this metronome!

Thanks for reading,

Juju

References:

1. http://www.franzmfg.com/history.htm

BMW R65 Restoration - Part 6 - Handle Bars, Carburetors, Chokes, and Throttle

Greetings friends,

This is a continuation of my series of posts documenting the restoration of my BMW R65. For the previous post in this series, click here.

Today we're going to jam a lot of small steps into a single blog post. In the last post I mounted the engine and transmission into the frame of the bike, and today we're attaching most of the peripheral equipment that the engine needs to run.

Let's start with the carburetors. These guys were in pretty good shape, and as far as attaching them to the engine, they were surprisingly easy, as there's a rubber sleeve that clamps onto the carb, connecting it into the intake of the corresponding cylinder. The backside of the carbs have fittings to allow the throttle cables and choke cables to be attached, and a small hose barb for the fuel line. We'll touch on each of these as each is installed. As part of the restoration/modification of this bike, I'm going for somewhat of a "Cafe Racer" style, which commonly uses pod-type filters on the carburetor inlets, which can be seen below. The filters mounted with a rubber sleeve exactly how the carbs mount to the cylinder.

The airbox that came with these bikes was pretty ugly in my opinion, so at least for now I'm forgoing trying to find a used airbox and simply eliminating it for the individual filters, and covering the top of the engine/starter motor with a nice cover. There is much debate in the community surrounding the impact on the engine of pod-filters vs airboxes, but for the sake of simplicity this is what I'm doing for now.

Pod filters fit right onto the carbs!

This motorcycle was originally equipped with choke cables that were manipulated with a knob mounted on the handlebars, but for an overall cleaner as less-cluttered look, I decided to forgo the cables and use "Choke Pull Tabs" instead. These tabs are thin wires connected to aluminum knobs that attach directly to the carburetor and allow fast choke (dis)engagement. The only disadvantage to the tabs is that each one needs to be pulled by itself, whereas the original choke cables would have pulled both chokes simultaneously. This isn't an issue since it's quite easy to stop for a sec and pull them to disable the choke.

It's obvious where to pull, right?

The handlebars I'm installing are unpainted stainless steel, as close in dimensions as I could get to the originals (22 mm dia.). They bolted on very easily, so there's not too much to discuss surrounding their installation.

The throttle body was a relatively cheap amazon purchase, and was a very simple fit over the end of the handlebar. The rounded end caps of the handlebar are tack-welded on, so I had to grind that back a bit to accommodate the throttle body. I lubricated the throttle body with the green grease I used for the steering bearing in a previous post. 

I purchased a throttle cable kit, which included all the necessary fittings to cut to length and assemble my own throttle cables. Using the old throttle cables as a reference, I cut the wires to length and assembled them in the same manner as the old ones. The old cables use a splitting assembly to allow one cable from the throttle body to control both butterfly valves at once. The kit I bought included this splitter, so I was able to recreate the original cables almost exactly.

   

Completed throttle cables. I forgot to take a pic of the
originals before I disassembled them...

Once the cables were fully assembled, routing them from the throttle body through the frame was simple, and the cable ends slipped nicely into the provided throttle levers on the carburetors. The levers are tucked away behind the carbs, but I'll include a picture in a different post to show them.

A little too zoomed-out, but here you can see the starter cover/airbox eliminator.

The handlebar grips were very easy to install thanks to a pro-tip from a friend of mine. Wetting the inside of the grip and the handlebar with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) allowed the grips to slide on very easily, and after the IPA evaporated overnight, the grips were super solidly in place. I did the same thing for the footrests!

There are a number of other accessories that will ultimately bolt onto the handle bars, but I think those will best be covered in a separate post. The engine electrics will also be covered separately, so for now, that's all!

Thanks for reading,

Juju

P.S. For the attentive readers in my audience, yes there are components installed on the bike that haven't been covered by this series of posts. I work on the bike as I go, and select parts to write about, but those don't always match chronologically...

BMW R65 Restoration - Part 5 - Engine & Transmission

Greetings friends,

This is a continuation of my series of posts documenting the restoration of my BMW R65. For the previous post in this series, click here.

When we last left off, I had documented the process of constructing the seat for my bike, and although that step chronologically occurred after the stuff I'll be describing in this post, this blog entry comes after. This post is pretty short, and just covers the broad strokes of installing the engine and transmission.

A crucial step before installing anything heavy into the bike is installing the kickstand. The bike must be able to stand on its own for everything else to go in, so I stripped down and painted the kickstand in the same manner as the frame and subframe. Installation was simple, just screwing it into place and installing the spring that holds it up or down.

The progress up until this point! Really starting to come together 

and look good, especially with the tank in place.

The engine is a heavy bastard, but is relatively easy to install. Two long threaded rods go through the frame and engine body to hold it in place, so it was just a matter of lifting (with help) and pushing the rods through the holes. Nuts and washers hold the rod in place, and with that the engine is in! That's the end of the simple stuff, as the transmission wound up being a bit more tricky.

The transmission was odd to get into place, likely because I'm technically fitting an engine and transmission from an R100RS (980cc) into the frame of an R65LS (650cc). I don't have a lot of wiggle room behind the engine at this point. I had to unbolt the swingarm and swing the rear wheel back to ultimately attach the transmission. Luckily the transmission hooks directly to the rear end of the clutch shaft and bolts on with 4 easy bolts, so once it was in place, there were no more issues.

I bolted the swingarm back in place and admired my work! With the engine/transmission in place I can start attaching more small components, including the carburettors, the throttle, and the air intake filters. Look out for all that in the next post!

Thanks for reading,

Juju

BMW R65 Restoration - Part 4 - Building the Seat

Greetings friends,

This is a continuation of my series of posts documenting the restoration of my BMW R65. For the previous post, click here.

When we last left off, I had attached the forks and swingarm onto the frame and gotten both wheels back onto the bike. Everything is really coming together and it's starting to look the way it's supposed to! 😁

In this post I'm going to detail the process of constructing the seat, including the upholstery. I'm very inexperienced as far as sewing goes, and have never tried sewing upholstery so please forgive my beginner mistakes. As with almost everything else about this restoration, it's a learning experience.

Construction of the seat began with cutting out the base to which the foam and cover would attach. I drilled holes into a 3/4" piece of birch plywood and attached it to the subframe to trace out the silhouette of the seat. Some quick cutting with the bandsaw and sanding the rough edges gave me a finished seat base. I painted the base with black Rustoleum paint.

For the main padding layer of the seat, I used some leftover 2" Kaizen foam I had left over from another project. Kaizen is closed-cell polyethylene foam which is very firm, generally used for multi purpose storage. Using 3M adhesive spray, I attached the foam to the wooden base and cut it to shape.

To cut the contour of the foam, I opted to bolt the seat to the bike and shave foam off until I reached a comfortable shape. I didn't do anything complex, mostly just rounding off and tapering the corners so everything looked good.

The last layer of foam I added before the cover went on is a 0.5" polyurethane foam. This foam is very soft and squishy and provides a thin compressible layer for added comfort. I traced the seat onto the foam, cut it out, and stuck it to the Kaizen foam with spray adhesive (no picture, but you'll see it later).

The cover was made out of black vinyl fabric. I selected the "arctic vinyl" option since it supposedly is more resilient to colder temperatures and will resist cracking. My original plan was to sew a layer of 0.5" polyurethane foam in between two layers of vinyl to create the cushioned diamond pattern for the cover but our sewing machine isn't robust enough to go through such thick material, so I settled for a layer of quilting batting between the layers, and it gave the same kind of effect. Not as much texture as I would've liked but the effect is still nice.

I again traced the seat onto this diamond-patterned piece and sewed along the line, cutting it out to shape. I then took a "negatively-shaped" piece of vinyl and sewed it to the main piece backwards, such that when pulled out it would fold around the sides of the seat and could be stapled into place. The sewing machine skipped a lot of stitches in this step, since I was working with a lot of thick layers. Because of this, I had to go over the line a few times in places to make sure it was all secure. The end that meets the gas tank needed a connecting piece to form the corners, which was simply sewed into place.

Once the entire cover was sewed together, I sprayed the middle part with spray adhesive and stuck it to the urethane foam, if for nothing else than to keep it centered and in place for when the rest of the cover got pulled and stapled into place. That said, I unfortunately got so caught up in the act of stapling the cover on that I hardly took any pictures of the process. But as you can imagine, it involved starting with stapling the front of the cover down (pictured below) and working down the sides to the back, pulling everything even and making it nice and tight.

First you start with a few staples.... and blammo you're done!

And with that, it's done! I've gone out of order with these posts compared to the actual progress I've made on the bike, so for now I'm not going to show off the rest of the bike until a later post. When that time comes, I'll show some other angles of the seat. Overall, I'm incredibly pleased with how it looks, and I learned a lot along the way. I may redo the cover later on just to give it a nicer cleaner shot but for now I'll move on to more important parts of the restoration.

Thanks for reading,

Juju